HAIDER ACKERMANN SPRING 2014 MENSWEAR
For whatever reason I’m reminded of the Hans Christian Anderson short-tale, The Emperor’s New Clothes. And new they certainly were. Haider Ackermann’s use of lustrous silks and shiny satins in royal hues of navy and burgundy red, voluminous in proportion with an ease and comfort about their look, were most certainly fit for a king. The brazen choice to enlist a stoic rockabilly mod-squad was Ackermann’s centrifugal bone of contention, the designers rebellious score. Underpinning a bourgeois fantasy of bomber jackets with tuxedo finishes and cropped genie pants with piping detail, perhaps set in Marrakesh, Ackermann’s male response to his feverishly addictive womenswear is essentially one of self-discovery. Unlike Simons before him, this was the Antwerp alumni’s first men’s ready-to-wear collection show on the Paris calendar, and we look forward to many more.
haiderackermann.be
Photography © Jason Lloyd Evans
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